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Help with LONG term planning


Hello!

My family has a 100 acre farm in Northern Appalachia. It was once a fully working farm with a gorgeous peach orchard but for the last 60 years has went back to forest with 4 or 5 small field exceptions family cut back mostly for deer hunting and so they have a place to drink beer with friends.

I plan to retire to this farm in 18 years or so. (There is a great build site at the top of the ridge.) Between then and now I am slowly improving the place – adding a good dug well with housing, putting in drainage by the access road, etc…. I am super interested in planting permaculture trees now so things are well established and producing when I retire – things like chestnut or oak that take a long time to grow. Mostly chestnut – we have wild oak and walnut naturally. The property is lots of hillside with several wet weather springs through-out and abundant wildlife. Little clearings are mowed with small tractor and brush hog currently to keep forest from overtaking them.

I have family who goes up twice a week and I can visit once a month to check on things, but whatever I plant has to be otherwise hardy. I am happy if wildlife eat the produce for now – I mostly won’t be there to collect.

Everything I find on permaculture assumes someone there harvesting. Am I not looking in the right place? Anyone have leads on where I can learn more or ideas on hardy pairings I can try? I have the luxury of time so willing to experiment a bit but the major disadvantage of living far away. Help!

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Planting fruit trees in ground that previously had a few railroad ties on it


There had previously been a loading dock that was basically a cribbed railroad tie wall in the shape of a “U” that retained enough soil behind it to create ramp/dock to pull up too. I removed the walls/ties and then removed the dirt to grade. I want to plant fruit trees, plum, peach, cherry in this area. Theoretically the surface area of the ties was small, only three of the ties were contacting the ground and the rest were stacked vertically on top of the bottom ones. I can avoid planing directly in the ground beneath where the ties previously laid, but the trees would be close to there.

What is the leeching potential of the ties over time in this scenario and do fruit trees takes up whatever toxins are in the soil?

submitted by /u/OwnAlfalfa1
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The Spirited Garden – a book review

Photography by Doreen L. Wynga
Written with Lorene Edwards Forkner
This sumptuous book features sixteen gardens in the Pacific Northwest region. Wynga has worked as a photographer for over thirty years. She has worked for Monrovia Nursery since 2004 and her photography has been featured in several books (including one of my personal favorites, The Tapestry Garden). 
The gardens included in this book cover a wide range from woodland sanctuaries to lakeside retreats. Each garden is covered in a 14-20 page spread with a brief description followed by gorgeous photos. This is a book to get lost in!
There are several gardens in the Portland area and many which are located in northern Washington.
(I could not find any promotional photos from the book so these shots will have to suffice).

The Spirited Garden is available in book stores. You can also find a copy on Amazon.
Note: I received a complimentary copy of this book from Rizzoli Publishers in exchange for an honest review.

Text and photos by Phillip Oliver, Dirt Therapy

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Honey Bee Flower Mixture


Hello!! I have this mix of Honey Bee Flower seeds from Wyatt-Quarles Seed Co. and I had a couple questions about using these in my new permaculture site.

  1. Do yal have any experience or thoughts on Wyatt-Quarles as a seed supplier?

  2. Would you feel comfortable putting a mix like this into your site? They aren’t natives and some are perennial, but they will be planted in an area that is easily sheet mulched.

  3. If you wouldn’t plant these in your plot, what would you do with them?

More Info: We are in zone 6b in the Blue Ridge mountains in VA. The land is completely scraped right now (over zealous contractors).

The mix is a blend of Blanketflower, California Poppy, Cape Forget-Me-Not, China Aster, Chinese Forget-Me-Not, Corn Poppy, French Marigold, Lacy Phacelia, Lance-Leaved Coreopsis, New England Aster, Prairie Coneflower, Purple Giant Hyssop, Purple Prairie Clover, Rocky Mountain Penstemon, Scarlet Cinquefoil, Siberian Wallflower, Sulphur Cosmos, Sweet Basil, Sweet Mignonette and White Upland Aster.

submitted by /u/baby_the_cakes
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Burying root stock graft (fruit trees)?


Does anyone have experience burying the root stock graft on fruit trees? I would much rather have a vigorous tree that lives longer and produces more fruit and that I can control the height myself with aggressive pruning.

Dwarfing a tree with root stock doesn’t make sense to me from an investment stand point. I’d much rather have a tree take slightly longer to produce fruit and live 100 years than a tree that produces fruit quickly but then dies after 15 or so years. What’s the point if I have to constantly be digging up these semi dwarf trees every 15 years…

Also, it seems like everything is sold as either “semi-dwarf” or “dwarf.” I rarely see nurseries selling full size trees anymore.

Anyways, does anyone have experience with burying the root stock to achieve a full size tree?

Thanks!

submitted by /u/Silver_Star_Eagles
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